1960s Universal Geneve Polerouter Sub ref. 869109/01

6 800

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Established in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Universal Genève quickly became a pioneer in the world of Swiss horology, particularly noted for its expertise in crafting chronographs. By the mid-20th century, the brand had gained a stellar reputation for producing some of the finest and most innovative wristwatches of the time. Universal Genève was a trailblazer in the development of micro-rotor movements, with models like the Polerouter, designed by Gerald Genta, becoming iconic for their technical precision and elegant design. The brand’s Compax series, including Tri-Compax and Aero-Compax, revolutionized chronograph design and were beloved by professionals in aviation and motorsports.

Universal Genève’s focus on creating both functional and aesthetically pleasing timepieces made it one of the premier Swiss watchmakers of the 20th century. Today, vintage Universal Genève models are highly coveted by collectors due to their historical significance, craftsmanship, and classic designs that remain timeless. Universal Genève’s enduring legacy in watchmaking innovation and elegance secures its place among the greats in horology.

An evolution of Gérald Genta’s early creation, the Polerouter Sub took the innovative calibre 69 micro-rotor and transformed it into a serious dive watch. Introduced in 1960, it remained in production throughout the decade, featuring distinctive 1960s design elements that are hard to miss. The watch boasts a red crosshair dial and large tritium-filled hands for maximum visibility. The 37.5mm case strikes a perfect balance in size, paired with a large, functional crown. While it’s a capable diver, it also has plenty of character and flair.

This one comes with box and papers, but the serial number being polished off on the caseback, we cannot confirm they were originally coming with the watch. Otherwise, the condition is very good, with a sharp case and bezel, original glass with trapezoidal loupe and inside-engraved shield, original hands (minute hand was relumed in the past) and a non-screw replacement UG crown.

 

BrandUniversal Geneve
ModelPolerouter Sub
Reference869109/01
YearCirca 1960
Case materialStainless Steel 
MovementAutomatic 69
Diameter37,5mm
LocationParis

CaseNice condition, caseback polished
DialVery nice condition
HandsOriginal, nice condition, minute hand relumed
CrownReplacement (UG)
StrapRubber
AccessoriesBox, papers

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