1950s Jaeger-Lecoultre Calendar in rose gold for the French market

Rose gold | Manual | 35.0mm

This model of calendar is not very well known by collectors, as it was produced in small quantities. It features a quite unique complication, with the display of the date via a rotating disc, which can be set thanks to a pusher in the middle of the crown.

This piece is also extremely rare as it comes in a rose gold “French case”. In the 50s, because of very high import taxes on gold, several manufacturers used to send movement, dial and hands to their abroad subsidiaries, where cases would be crafted by local makers, with their own designs. We can find very nice examples made for Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, Longines, or, as here, Jaeger-LeCoultre. When it comes to French cases, specifically, experts agree on the fact that these cases were usually of better quality than the original ones, with a larger amount of gold and more complex designs.

This model makes no exception. While the traditional JLC calendar disc watch has a quite simple case, this one has beveled lugs and bezel, various finishing (mirror polish, different brush polishes) and is bigger (35mm versus 34mm) and heavier.

It is worth noticing that the case is unpolished, keeping 2 very crisp eagle head hallmarks, being the typical french hallmark for 18 karat gold, and that the buckle seem to be made by the same maker, for this very watch, as it comes in the same rose gold and with its own eagle hallmark.

Also, the dial bears the french mention “Fabriqué en Suisse”, only seen on watches exported by Swiss manufacturers to France.

This watch is a stunning example of the collaboration between one of the best watch manufacturer and the most skilled French jewellers of the era. It is a unique opportunity to own a piece of horological history.